Standard Gauge Baldwin Gas Mechanical

Mancunian

Active Member
...

I'm pleased you're enjoying my little project. Despite me modifying parts of the kit, the build has been a real joy. Testimony to the skills of the designer of the kit methinks.
...

Mike
Do you think it would be possible to convert the 4mm kit that was mentioned earlier in the thread to P4 or is it too small for that?
Regards
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Do you think it would be possible to convert the 4mm kit that was mentioned earlier in the thread to P4 or is it too small for that?
Regards
Anything is possible! It basically comes down to swapping out the narrow gauge axles for standard gauge axles and mounting the wheels and outside cranks accordingly.Nothing too technical, but I would probably struggle to do a similar conversion in 4mm/1ft. But, I'm just an enthusiastic amateur! :D

I believe the 4mm/1ft kit is out of production, but if you already have the kit then why not give it a go.

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Getting there! Buffer beams are some 6mm x 2mm channel I had in stock. The buffers themselves are heavily butchered Slaters items. :eek:
I've arranged it so that the beams are bolted into place. This allows for the inevitable adjustment that will follow.

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Once I'm happy with the alignment, additional bracing struts as per the prototype will be added. The hexagonal heads visible either side of the coupling hook will be ground off in due course.

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
The rear buffer beam is done. There's a couple of M0.8 bolts to hold it on to the rear of the cab. Once fully aligned I'll add a bit of solder to firm things up. In the meantime the ability to bolt and unbolt the beam is handy as I need to work out how to make and add the additional bracing struts.

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The addition of a driver will hide a multitude of omissions/sins! ;)
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Mike
 

Giles

Western Thunderer
'Tis a joy to watch.....
However, the (new) rear buffer beam should be braced diagonally down or horizontally across to the mainframes, no matter how inconvenient to the driver. The cab sheetwork and the upstand supporting the beam wouldn't cope with much of a bump from any wagons. i'm sure i've seen an example, but needless to say i can't find it!
(I'm sure you have it in hand anyway....)
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
'Tis a joy to watch.....
However, the (new) rear buffer beam should be braced diagonally down or horizontally across to the mainframes, no matter how inconvenient to the driver. The cab sheetwork and the upstand supporting the beam wouldn't cope with much of a bump from any wagons. i'm sure i've seen an example, but needless to say i can't find it!
(I'm sure you have it in hand anyway....)
Never fear Giles... 'Tis all in hand. :)

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
The remaining three bracing bars are now complete and fitted.

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The assemblies can still be unbolted to allow better access for painting.

You will note that I've chosen not to model the brackets that tie the bracing bars to the top of the chassis inside the cab. Too fiddly and I don't think it'll be seen in the gloom of the cab!

I can't imagine working in such a cluttered and confined cab could have been much fun. Respect to those who did. :thumbs:

Mike
 
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spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I'm toying with the idea of replicating the cab roof cowling/visor that was added to the prototype at some point. I think the prototype has a slightly different cab height to the model, as the forward facing windows are rectangular whereas the model ones are almost square. This does seem to make the roof cowling/visor appear taller on the model. I've mocked up a paper version to see if I like it.

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Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I've added a little bit more metalwork to the cab in the form of what appear reminiscent of horse blinkers! I'm not sure what their purpose is, but I had to model them.
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Initially I was just going to glue the buffers in solid (the easy option) but my conscience got the better of me. I couldn't see how I could easily get them to spring as I'd already soldered the buffer housing in place. But a chance encounter with a set of 4mm/1ft Maygib 23" industrial buffers on eBay provided the solution.
Hopefully the pictures below show what I did. Basically I reduced the Maygib buffer housing in diameter so I could just push them into the Slaters housings. In an ideal world I'd be doing all this on a lathe, but that isn't an option as I don't have one, so it was done with files and my trusty old Proxxon drill.
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I'll fix them in place later with a drop of varnish.

Mike
 
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