Duncan Chandler
Active Member
Super build, wish I could solder that cleanly
7mm Gladiator LMS/BR Fowler/Stanier 4P 2-6-4T
- Thread starter P A D
- Start date
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks Duncan, so do I.
I just spend a lot of time cleaning up or solder on the inside where possible to avoid the need to remove the excess!
It's also good to solder details to main parts while they are off the model which leaves more room for cleaning up. The tank tops being a point in question. The etched parts were added in the flat and the castings were sdered from the underneath before i put the boiler in. The problem I have now is fitting the cast tank straps. If I solder them then it will be a pig to remove any excess to my satisfaction. With hindsight, I should have fitted them before the boiler when I could have soldered from underneath the tank top.
I'll fix them with epoxy as any ooze is easier to remove.
Cheers,
Peter
I just spend a lot of time cleaning up or solder on the inside where possible to avoid the need to remove the excess!
It's also good to solder details to main parts while they are off the model which leaves more room for cleaning up. The tank tops being a point in question. The etched parts were added in the flat and the castings were sdered from the underneath before i put the boiler in. The problem I have now is fitting the cast tank straps. If I solder them then it will be a pig to remove any excess to my satisfaction. With hindsight, I should have fitted them before the boiler when I could have soldered from underneath the tank top.
I'll fix them with epoxy as any ooze is easier to remove.
Cheers,
Peter
I am having replacement toolbox etches produced: send me your contact details via the Gladiator website and I will send to you when they arrive.
David
P A D
Western Thunderer
Simon, my build of the DA Stanier 2-6-4T is documented here David Andrews 7mm Stanier 2 6 4 tank.
Many thanks David, but no need as I have scratched one up.
Peter, sorry for the hijack but that offer was intended for Simon! I know you’ve made your own! Cheers
David
P A D
Western Thunderer
So here are the tank straps after fitting with epoxy. If I'd checked before fitting the boiler I would have discovered that there is clearance to fit them before the boiler and could then have soldered them from the inside .
This is the etched bracket for bridging the gap between boiler and tank straps. The thin end fits in the strap and the wider end is fixed to the boiler. From looking at the drawings in the Wild Swann profile, this arrangement seems correct, but the bracket would have been fitted to the boiler not the cladding. Therefore I have only used the the thin ends of the brackets butted up to the boiler to give the impression that the bracket passes through the cladding.
To give this.
As mentioned in @SimonME30's thread on the Signature Models version of the Fowler 4P, the gap between the cab splashers is too narrow for the backhead casting( no doubt due to the narrow finescale frame width) so some material needs removing to get it to fit. Also the backhead is too short and needs some packing at the bottom to raise it up to the level of the firebox. On the other hand the reverser casting is too tall and need the base removing for it to sit at the correct height.
The chimney, dome and outside steampipes are now fitted as well
Cheers,
Peter
This is the etched bracket for bridging the gap between boiler and tank straps. The thin end fits in the strap and the wider end is fixed to the boiler. From looking at the drawings in the Wild Swann profile, this arrangement seems correct, but the bracket would have been fitted to the boiler not the cladding. Therefore I have only used the the thin ends of the brackets butted up to the boiler to give the impression that the bracket passes through the cladding.
To give this.
As mentioned in @SimonME30's thread on the Signature Models version of the Fowler 4P, the gap between the cab splashers is too narrow for the backhead casting( no doubt due to the narrow finescale frame width) so some material needs removing to get it to fit. Also the backhead is too short and needs some packing at the bottom to raise it up to the level of the firebox. On the other hand the reverser casting is too tall and need the base removing for it to sit at the correct height.
The chimney, dome and outside steampipes are now fitted as well
Cheers,
Peter
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
If the straps are fixed to the boiler the cladding would need to have a cutout beneath the strap otherwise it couldn’t be fitted. Perhaps there was a filler piece slotted in after assembly?
Maybe I am just being pernickity!
Maybe I am just being pernickity!
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
As the boiler cladding had joints top and bottom, it would be possible to fit them over the tank brackets through slots in the cladding. However, according to the cladding (boiler clothing) drawing, there were sort of inverted horse-shoe shaped detachable, indented patch plates local to the tank brackets, through which the horizontal part of the bracket protruded. The palm of the brackets was attached to the boiler barrel and was invisible once the patch plates were fitted. Looking at various photos, these patch plates don't really show up once fitted.
Dave.
Dave.
my guess looking at these pictures, is that the cladding sheets had cut-outs in them the same as holes for the washout plugs etc, they just fitted over the brackets on the boiler and would have been quite a good fit.
Attachments
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi David,
Looking at the drawing I see what you mean about the patches. I have also spotted them on one or two of the images in the Wild Swann profile, but as you say, they don't really show.
The forward bracket can be seen here before the patch is added.
This is how the kit depicts things, so on reflection not as wrong as I thought, although they look far too prominent if used (see image below from the Gladiator website).
With the above in mind I'm happy with what I've done, but I will make the patches from shim brass and see how they look.
Cheers,
Peter
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Overseer
Western Thunderer
I think the photo shows the patch in place. My reading of the drawing and photo is that the ‘patch’ is a pressed steel piece screwed to the cladding. It is indented to provide access to the bolts connecting the two parts of the tank bracket. Cutting a larger odd shaped hole in the boiler cladding and soldering the kit part inside would be closer to the prototype appearance but better to leave it as you have made it. Certainly doesn’t need anything raised from the surface.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Having studied this image I would agree with your comments. The oval panels with indents can clearly be seen along with the screws fixing them to the cladding. As you say, it's probably best to leave things as they are. I suspect that as i did originally, John Firminger miss-interpreted the drawing when he was designing the kit.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
Time to fit the cab roof and steam pipes, but first some modifications. For the roof I use a method suggested to me a while ago by Tony Geary when I was building the David Andrews Stanier 4P.
First the roof is cut either side at the rain strips. The side portions are fixed to the cab and the central part slots in under the rainstrips which are added from 2X1mm brass angle.
Here's the cab after fitting the ranstrip to to the side portions and then fitting them to the cab.
The inner edge of the rainstrips overhangs the edge of the side portions by 1mm which allows the edges of the central part to be slotted under the overhang to hold it in place. Care has to be taken to avoid getting solder under the overhang at the ends.
And with the roof clipped in place.
The roof is held nice and tight and is of course removable for further detailing the cab interior and for painting.
For the cast steampipes the kit provides half etched flanges for the top and bottom. As the come they are overly wide so I thinned them down before fitting. Three down one to go here.
The cast brass pipes were epoxied in place and the flanges soldered.
Still a bit wide I think but I couldn't go any thinner without loosing the rivets.
The cab door handrails have now been fitted, but I've still to add the door handles.
Cheers,
Peter
First the roof is cut either side at the rain strips. The side portions are fixed to the cab and the central part slots in under the rainstrips which are added from 2X1mm brass angle.
Here's the cab after fitting the ranstrip to to the side portions and then fitting them to the cab.
The inner edge of the rainstrips overhangs the edge of the side portions by 1mm which allows the edges of the central part to be slotted under the overhang to hold it in place. Care has to be taken to avoid getting solder under the overhang at the ends.
And with the roof clipped in place.
The roof is held nice and tight and is of course removable for further detailing the cab interior and for painting.
For the cast steampipes the kit provides half etched flanges for the top and bottom. As the come they are overly wide so I thinned them down before fitting. Three down one to go here.
The cast brass pipes were epoxied in place and the flanges soldered.
Still a bit wide I think but I couldn't go any thinner without loosing the rivets.
The cab door handrails have now been fitted, but I've still to add the door handles.
Cheers,
Peter
The rear bogie was changed for the limousine cab version so perhaps not well.